I’m back filming for my TV show again, this time in Türkiye’s ancient Mardin. 

A place that has been on my radar for years, and I’m delighted to finally get to see. Visiting Mardin is a real off-the-beaten-bath experience in Türkiye, but one that should be much more famous. Here’s how I spent my three-day trip to Mardin during filming.

Some places hit you before you’ve even unpacked your bag. Mardin, for me, was one of them.

Perched on a steep hillside in southeastern Türkiye, looking out across the plains of Mesopotamia, it’s a city dripping in stories. Layers of civilisation built on top of each other, like the rooftops that seem to tumble down the hill. 

Assyrians, Arabs, Kurds, Armenians, Turks, Syriacs, Persians, they’ve all left their fingerprints here. And now, so have I!

Day 1: Madrasas and modern legends

As often with filming, I get no sleep! So, we started early. Like, pre-sunrise early. The kind of early where the call to prayer becomes your guide as you climb narrow stone steps in the dark. 

Our destination? Zinciriye Madrasa, a 14th-century Islamic school that’s now one of the best viewpoints in the city. This is the icon of Mardin really, and it’s an Instagram hotspot these days.

We reached the top just as the sun cracked the horizon. The Sun’s rays pour over the rooftops, casting long shadows across the plains that stretch all the way into Syria. Epic.

I stood there in silence for a moment, mic’d up but speechless. You can feel the weight of centuries here. We rolled cameras and kicked off the episode from the top of the madrasa, and honestly, I couldn’t think of a better place to set the tone for Mardin.

From there, we headed into something completely different, but just as impactful. Zamarot 1890. Now, you know I love good food, especially when there’s a story behind it.

Zamarot is a zero-waste, fusion restaurant led by Ebru Baybara Demir, and, trust me, this woman is a force. Entrepreneur, philanthropist, chef, community leader. She’s got more energy than most of us can dream of.

We sat down to talk, and I was floored by what she’s doing here. Her mission isn’t just about food—it’s about sustainability, empowering women, and preserving culture. 

And the food? Outrageous. Think local ingredients reimagined in smart, modern ways. Eating there felt like experiencing the future of Turkish cuisine while sitting in a 19th-century building.

Day 2: Sweets, Sufis, and coffee with a rooftop view

The next morning was all about diving into Mardin’s layered history through its everyday flavours and sacred spaces.

We kicked things off in the Old Bazaar, which is exactly what you want a Middle Eastern bazaar to be: winding alleys, the smell of spices in the air, vendors calling out greetings, and centuries-old stone walls closing in around you. It’s chaotic in the best way.

Here, I tried the Mardin pastry. A rich, spiced treat that originated in the Christian communities here and has since been adopted city-wide. That’s the thing about Mardin: it doesn’t try to hide its diversity. It celebrates it. Religions and cultures don’t just coexist, they blend. And the food tells that story better than any museum ever could.

Next, we visited Ulu Cami, the Grand Mosque of Mardin. It dates back to the 12th century, and its plain stone exterior hides one of Islam’s most sacred relics. The Sakal-i Serif is a sacred relic regarded as a strand from the beard of the Prophet Muhammad. Whether you’re religious or not, standing in front of something that carries that kind of reverence is humbling.

Then it was time for a classic Mardin moment: a coffee break on a rooftop, looking out across the rolling plains of Mesopotamia. I talked to the camera about how this region has been at the crossroads of civilisation for thousands of years. Mesopotamia isn’t just a history lesson—it’s the history lesson. The cradle of civilisation, right at your feet.

After the monastery, I met up with Nehir Erdogan, a Turkish actress you might recognise from some of the country’s biggest TV dramas. 

She spent time working in Mardin and spoke with real love about how the city shaped her. We chatted about identity, belonging, and what it means to truly connect with a place. It was less an interview, more a heart-to-heart. Off-camera, we kept talking for an hour.

And then, hands down the most unexpected moment of the trip, we met up with Zahit Mungan, a world champion kite flyer. Yes, that’s a thing, and yes, he’s incredible. Zahit designs and flies kites that aren’t just beautiful. They tell stories. We climbed up to a traditional stone rooftop and launched his kite into the Mesopotamian sky.

It was one of those surreal moments. No script. No pressure. Just a kite dancing on the wind and two lads laughing on a rooftop, looking out at history itself. Pure joy.

Final thoughts: Why you should care about Mardin

If you’ve only got room for Istanbul and Cappadocia in your Türkiye plans, I get it. 

But you’d be missing something essential. Mardin isn’t flashy, but it’s deep. It’s the kind of place where time folds in on itself, where the Muslim call to prayer echoes across rooftops just a few streets away from ancient Christian monasteries. Where the food tells you as much about the people as the architecture does.

For the Where to Next team and me, Mardin wasn’t just a filming location. It was a reminder of why we travel. To connect. To learn. And to get humbled. And to fly a kite once in a while.

‘Other’ things to do in Mardin (or eat!)

1. Lose yourself in the maze of Old Mardin: You don’t walk the streets of Mardin—you explore them. It’s a real labyrinth of sandstone alleyways, old mosques, and hidden viewpoints overlooking the Mesopotamian plains. Forget Google Maps—this place was made for wandering.

💡 Don’t miss: Ulu Cami, Erkulu Cami, Sehidiye Cami, the post office, and Zinciriye Madrasa for the views. 

2.  Coffee with a view at Harabee Kitap Cafe: Hidden gem alert: While the crowds were queueing for Zinciriye Madrasa, I ducked into this tiny hillside café and had it all to myself. Their menengiç coffee is rich and nutty, served with posh smartie-like chocolates and a killer view across the plains.

📍 Medrese, Hisarcık 248 Sk

3.  See Mardin from a distance: After exploring the inner maze, take a walk outside the city to get that postcard-perfect hilltop skyline view. We strolled about 30 minutes and it was totally worth it.

4.  Stumble into the Bulgur Festival (If you’re lucky): No joke—we just happened to be in Mardin during the first ever International Bulgur Festival. Didn’t plan it, didn’t understand a word, but ended up getting handed plates of food by strangers, dancing in Cumhuriyet Square, and grinning ear to ear. Pure magic.

5.  Breakfast goals at Mardin Galatist Kafe & Kahvalti: I love a good Turkish breakfast, and this spot nailed it—killer views, endless tea, and a spread that would make a sultan jealous. If you’re a breakfast nerd like me, don’t miss it.

📍 Ulucami, Cumhuriyet, No:313

6. Grab a killer falafel at Falafel Ammo Hamza: Crispy, golden falafel, loaded with fresh salad, dripping in tahini and chili sauce, all wrapped up in warm flatbread. Absolutely delightful. 

But here’s the move: grab it to-go, head back to your apartment, crack open a bottle of local pomegranate wine, and kick back on the terrace. Every evening, we made it our mission to catch the sunset, and trust me, you don’t want to miss it. The skies here don’t mess about.

📍 Şar, 1. Cadde No:416

Final thoughts on visiting Mardin

Mardin is the kind of place that sneaks up on you. It’s ancient, yes—but it’s also alive. The views, the food, the culture, the stories… all wrapped up in golden stone and warm hospitality. If you’re heading east in Türkiye, do not skip it.

Got questions or planning your own Mardin trip? Drop me a message or follow along on Insta at @onestep4ward. I’ve got loads more coming from this part of the world.