As dusk descends on the Somali capital every day, floodlights illuminate the restored Mogadishu Stadium (Garoonka Muqdisho), casting long shadows where military tanks once stood guard.
Children in replica jerseys sprint past checkpoints that have replaced military barricades, their laughter mixing with the thud of footballs and the murmur of anticipation from crowds milling at the venue.
Somalia's footballing resurrection is reflected in the hive of activity that Mogadishu Stadium has become after decades of sporting inactivity.
The transformation is more than just sport getting its rightful place in the Somali sun. In a country where football was once branded a "satanic act" by terrorists and banned, the beautiful game has become a catalyst for healing, unity and hope.
Concurrent crises
Mogadishu Stadium's journey mirrors Somalia's turbulent path.
The venue, which opened in 1977 during more optimistic times, hosted the CECAFA Senior Challenge Cup that same year. Old-timers still excitedly recall moments from the deadlocked final in which Uganda defeated Zambia on penalties.
In some ways, the stadium represented national pride – a modern facility where dreams took flight and communities united in their love of football.
Then darkness fell.
When civil war erupted in the early 1990s, FIFA suspended all its activities in Somalia. The stadium, like much of Somalia's civic infrastructure, was militarised and abandoned. Elite clubs were disbanded.
Over the next two decades, the stadium became a base for UN forces, Ethiopian troops, and then AMISOM peacekeepers. By 2011, it was a walled garrison, with tanks stationed where players used to warm up.
During that entire period, no match was played. No goal was celebrated. The silence stretched until Somali football reclaimed its home in August 2018.
What followed wasn't just renovation; it was a rekindling of hope. Grass replaced gravel, stands were rebuilt, and the gates reopened to welcome fans deprived of the joy of watching football for so long.
Somalia's revival as a tourism destination marks a journey from conflict to reclaiming its lost identity as a country blessed with natural wealth, cultural richness, and a resilient population.
"We currently have three stadiums in Mogadishu, including the historic Mogadishu Stadium, which has been fully rehabilitated," Ali Abdi Mohamed, president of the Somali Football Federation (SFF), tells TRT Afrika.
"These venues are now hosting league matches and national fixtures. Beyond the capital, we have opened regional pitches used for youth development and grassroots competitions. These places show how far Somali football has come."
By 2020, league matches played under floodlights drew fans back to terraces that had been silent for decades.
Return to prominence
Somalia's recovery has captured attention at football's highest levels. In 2024, FIFA President Gianni Infantino welcomed SFF chief Mohamed to the governing body’s headquarters in Paris, marking the end of a long period of isolation since 1991.
"The SFF has already made excellent use of funds from FIFA Forward, including constructing a new headquarters," Infantino acknowledges. "FIFA will continue to support Somali football's development."
This recognition represents validation of a journey that began in the late 2000s when displaced Somali players returned to makeshift pitches to revive their passion.
FIFA's return to Somalia in 2013 kickstarted training programmes that had been suspended for over two decades. By 2016, regional championships – interrupted by instability for decades – were reinstated, laying the foundation for where Somali football now stands.
Somali Premier League
The country’s top football competition features 12 teams operating under a promotion and relegation system. Each season, two teams face relegation while two others earn promotion to the top flight, just like the elite English Premier League.
"This is not just a league; it's a symbol of resilience and unity," Mohamed tells TRT Afrika. "At the end of every season, we host an awards ceremony to recognise top-performing teams and players. It's a celebration of Somali talent and a motivator for young footballers across the country."
Undeterred by the nation's past, foreign coaches are now drawn to Somalia, reflecting the growing ambition of its clubs.
Star forward Ibrahim Elyas, who now plays in Tanzania's premier division, acknowledges the Somali Premier League's resurgence as a personal turning point.
"It gave me exposure, belief. I didn't know what to expect in Somalia, but what I found gave me goosebumps. That love; it changed my life," he says. "People think Somali football is just chaos and dust, but they don't see the passion, the hunger. They don't see how much it means to the people. It's one of the most powerful atmospheres I have ever played in."
Players from neighbouring Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, and Burundi have chosen to sign for Somali clubs, emphasising the league's growing allure. Clubs like Horseed FC, backed by national institutions like the military, ports authority and Mogadishu Municipality, are boldly venturing onto the continental stage.
Somalia returned to the CAF Champions League and CAF Confederation competitions in 2019 after a 30-year absence. Horseed's recent participation in the CAF Confederation Cup 2024/25 preliminary draw marks another promising chapter.
Global diaspora unites
The domestic revival's impact extends to Somalia's national team, the Ocean Stars, now forging a new identity built on global talent. Sixteen of the 26 current senior men's squad were born abroad.
"This shows the global reach of Somali talent. Representing Somalia is a dream fulfilled, it's deeply emotional and personal," says Mohamed.
This diaspora connection faces unique challenges, though.
As Elyas explains, “When you represent the national team or a club in international matches, what do people from other countries say about you – a player from Somalia? Initially, when they see a Somali playing in a different league, they underestimate you based on their perception of Somalia as a nation."
But players like Elyas are rewriting that narrative, shattering stereotypes with every performance.
The Ocean Stars are participating in CAF qualifiers for the 2026 FIFA World Cup in Group G, competing against formidable opponents that include Algeria, Botswana, Guinea, Mozambique and Uganda.
Despite growing ambition, Somalia has never qualified for a major continental or global tournament. Due to security concerns, they currently play their home matches abroad, though there's hope that the 65,000-seat Mogadishu Stadium will soon be cleared to host international fixtures.
Somalia’s youth team has followed the trajectory of the senior team's progress. The country’s under-17 team, a generation born without access to proper sporting infrastructure, participated recently in the CAF U-17 Africa Cup of Nations in Morocco for the second consecutive edition.
Their 4-2 penalty shootout triumph over South Sudan last December to secure third place in the CECAFA qualifiers was also a significant triumph.
Beyond the pitch
Football's revival has created ripple effects throughout Somali society. Somali-language commentary and analysis fill airwaves, while a new generation of football journalists and digital media entrepreneurs captivate passionate audiences. Sports-focused digital channels have proliferated, kit retailers and content creators tap into the economic benefits, and local vendors create livelihoods around the game.
Even referees are being recognised. Omar Abdulkadir Artan has earned prestigious assignments to officiate in high-profile CAF matches.
The passion extends across demographics, with hordes of women fans filling stadiums to support their teams.
Somalia's footballing ambitions continue expanding. In January this year, the country's futsal championship returned after a 15-year hiatus, with Al Zukhri claiming the title. The federation has embarked on a mission to revive beach soccer, recently starting work on a new beach soccer stadium.
Last year also saw Somalia stage its first women's football tournament, a historic event in a society where such opportunities were previously unimaginable.
An unfinished story
Somalia's footballing journey defies easy categorisation. This isn't solely about trophies or rankings, but about the power of dreams being reignited, stadiums resurrected from war's ashes, and a generation inspired to believe in a brighter future.
While the world often focuses on Somalia's political and security challenges, its youth and sporting talent have spent years diligently rebuilding their most cherished sport.
The roar that fills Mogadishu Stadium not only carries echoes of the past but also reverberates with hope for the future.
