With its population of 16 million, Istanbul offers both the vibrancy of human connection and the solace of introspection.

By Zulal Sema

In this city of buzz and solitude, you never feel lonely. 

In Istanbul, one moment you are standing on the Dereboyu street that straddles Ortakoy, shivering in bitter cold under the rustle of leaves. And the next moment, a bus, brimming with people, arrives filling different corners of the city. 

As one walks the storied streets in this ancient city of kings and warriors, writers and artists, and travellers, thronging the city in hordes, Istanbul becomes more than a place; it becomes an emotion.

With its population of 16 million, Istanbul offers both the vibrancy of human connection and the solace of introspection. 

Here, experiences—whether gazing at the serene waters of Istanbul Strait or loitering without aim in the labyrinthine bazaars—become indelible memories.

The city’s history adds to the memory as its iconic landmarks – Ayasofya Grand Mosque, Grand Bazaar, and Topkapi Palace – beckon exploration.

Icons aside, Istanbul’s charm lies equally in its hidden corners: the quiet tea gardens of Pierre Loti Hill, the cobblestone alleys of Balat, and the scent of spices wafting from Tahtakale.

This isn’t just about ticking off tourist spots—it’s about becoming part of the city’s heartbeat.

Poets and filmmakers have often likened Istanbul to a living movie, its rhythm embodied by seagulls soaring over the Istanbul Strait and ferries slicing through shimmering waters. As you walk Babiali Slope, the cinematic magic of Istanbul unfolds with every step.

This spring, why not immerse yourself in the timeless allure of Istanbul’s seven hills and discover a story that will linger in your heart forever?

The Seven Hills: Istanbul’s eternal crown

The hills of Istanbul have captured the imagination of explorers and artists alike. 

The city’s hills shape its silhouette and its soul. Their beauty is fabled. Whether through the lyrics in a song by Turkish singer Levent Yuksel who romanticise them: ‘...the wind blows your hair over the seven hills,’ or in the sentiments of an academic who recently moved from Japan to Istanbul.

"Istanbulites are so accustomed to the city's hills that, in essence, every Istanbulite is a bit of a trekker," Professor Naoki Yamamoto tells TRT World. He occasionally uses trekking poles to navigate the city of seven hills. 

Yamamoto teaches at Marmara University's Institute of Turkic Studies, Department of Asian Languages and Cultures, and he originally comes from Japan.

Rising like sentinels, each hill tells a tale of cultural and spiritual heritage woven together through centuries.

So let’s begin this journey and explore the heritage, culture and culinary markers that these hills have wrapped in their fold.

Sarayburnu 

On the First Hill, the Hagia Sophia, a timeless marvel, invites visitors to witness its transformation across ages. 

Nearby, the Rustem Pasha Mosque dazzles with Iznik tiles that seem to dance in the light.

Located at the foot of this hill, the Flower Bazaar is a vibrant starting point for exploration, offering heirloom seeds and flowers that once decorated Ottoman gardens.

And if your sensory feast is craving, Tahtakale’s spice shops offer a heady blend of aromas and memories.

As Hasan Mert Kaya, a 50-year-old Istanbul researcher and editor, tells TRT World, “This street has smelled of spices for as long as I can remember. Since childhood, I’ve come here to buy black pepper, cumin, and salep. Every winter, I make sure to get salep from this very spot—it’s a tradition that ties me to my roots and reminds me of my childhood.”

The mingling scents of freshly milled pepper and salep in Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar evoke not just the allure of the market but the weight of traditions carried through generations.

Wandering through the vibrant Misir Carsisi or the Egyptian Bazaar, a historic treasure trove of aromatic spices and delicacies, you’re enveloped in the city’s enduring cultural tapestry.

For those yearning to take a piece of this part of the city home, the artisanal stalls of Ali Pasa Han, Zincirli Han, and Kucuk Safranhan present handcrafted mementoes steeped in history.

Cemberlitas

The Second Hill, crowned by the Nuruosmaniye Mosque, exudes Ottoman baroque style. Its serene courtyard provides the ideal setting for reflecting on the city's spiritual and artistic heritage.

Here, hidden cafes offer aromatic Turkish coffee steeped in tradition, while the ancient Cemberlitas Column (Column Constantine) whispers stories of Byzantium. 

Beneath the Grand Bazaar’s arches, Beta Yeni Han provides a quiet retreat—a space where the past and present merge seamlessly. This towering relic offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s layered history, bridging the Ottoman and Byzantine eras.

Kaya suggests visitors visit Beta Yeni Han, a hidden retreat nestled within the vibrant energy of the Grand Bazaar.

Beneath its historic arches, one can savour a cup of Turkish coffee or tea while immersing oneself in the tranquil atmosphere.

This charming spot offers a perfect opportunity to unwind and reflect on the day's discoveries, blending history, culture, and relaxation into an unforgettable experience.

After this, head towards the third hill. 

Suleymaniye 

The Third Hill is a walk through well-preserved simulations in time capsules.

On this hill, Suleymaniye Mosque reigns supreme. Designed by the famed Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan for Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, it stands as more than a place of worship. This is a timeless ode to Ottoman architecture, a masterpiece that whispers tales of grandeur and vision.

Poet Ibrahim Tenekeci captures its essence, describing Suleymaniye as a “central point that envelops visitors completely, giving the area its identity.”

Ahmet Murat, a contemporary poet and thinker, pays homage to this architectural wonder in his book Tasi Tasirmak.

"I didn’t have the means to build a mosque, so I wrote this book instead," Murat writes in his book, reflecting on his deep connection to Suleymaniye.

Suleymaniye is not just a monument; it’s a tapestry of Istanbul’s cultural heritage. 

After soaking in its awe-inspiring atmosphere, a plate of kuru fasulye (bean stew) at the famous Tarihi Suleymaniye Kurufasulyecisi.

And if there’s nip in the air, no visit would be complete without stopping at the historic Vefa Bozacisi for a warm cup of boza, a popular fermented drink, transcending the taste of generations.

For newlywed Fatma Berk, Vefa Bozacisi became a defining moment of their visit. “The atmosphere and flavour truly warmed me and my husband,” Fatma tells TRT World.

“A must-visit to experience this winter classic!” Their sentiment echoes the shop’s legacy—a place where tradition and community come together.

Another worthy place to visit in the neighbourhood is a Suleymaniye Chocolate Shop. Run by Seyit Mehmet Cagirici, this cafe is a tribute to the golden age of the 16th century. 

“Our cafe reflects the splendour of Suleymaniye’s golden age through its architecture, music, and even chocolates named after classical music modes like ‘Bezmara,’ ‘Ferahfeza,’ and ‘Sehnaz,’” Cagirici says. 

Since its opening in 2015, the space has hosted nightly mesk—traditional musical gatherings—to keep the cultural heritage alive. 

“We place our menus inside poetry books, encouraging guests to slow down and connect with the ambiance,” he says. “This is more than a cafe; it’s an experience, a bridge to history and the spirit of community.”

Fatih

The Fourth Hill houses the Fatih Mosque, a tribute to Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, whose tomb lies nearby.

Its serene courtyards and domes invite reflection, while the Sultan’s tomb, adorned with intricate tiles and calligraphy, serves as a spiritual beacon for those paying homage to the leader who reshaped history.

This sacred space, the Fatih Mosque complex, stands as a living monument to Istanbul's layered history.

Visitors flock here not only for prayers but also to immerse themselves in the stories etched into its stones, finding solace and inspiration in its tranquil surroundings.

For forty years, Cemal Balibey has served as a quiet guardian of this historic sanctuary. 

Each morning, he strolls through the serene courtyard, offering prayers for those who rest here. A forestry engineer by training and a historian at heart, Cemal finds peace in the ancient trees that grace the grounds. 

“Walking among these trees brings me a sense of connection. I collect their leaves, archive them, and gift them to visiting students, linking them to the spirit of the past” Balibey tells TRT World. 

His passion for history and nature weaves an unbroken thread between the mosque’s legacy and the natural world, making him a living bridge to Istanbul’s rich heritage.

Beyond the mosque, the district pulses with life in the Carsamba Market, a Wednesday tradition that immerses visitors in the kaleidoscopic energy of Istanbul’s street culture.

Nearby, the Molla Zeyrek Mosque, a transformed Byzantine church, stands as a striking example of the city’s ability to merge two civilisations into a harmonious whole.

The tomb of Mehmet Emin Tokadi, an 18th-century Sufi mystic, completes the spiritual journey, offering a quiet sanctuary for those inspired by the enduring quest for inner peace.

Together, these landmarks weave a vibrant tapestry of faith, commerce, and history, defining the soul of Fatih.

Yavuz Selim

On Istanbul’s Fifth hill, the Yavuz Selim Mosque stands as a serene sentinel overlooking the Golden Horn. Its graceful dome and minarets frame breathtaking views of the city’s skyline, offering visitors a moment of quiet reflection amidst Istanbul’s relentless energy.

This hill is also a bridge that links different phases of life for some. 

Mehmet Dikbayir, a Fatih-born journalist and photographer, still visits this place, which holds his childhood memories, from time to time, both to refresh his memories and to photograph Istanbul.

“When I was 9 or 10 years old, I would come and sit in the garden of Yavuz Selim Mosque in the evenings with my late mother, late grandmother and younger siblings,” he says. “As the sun sets behind the hills, the yellow and red light reflecting on the Golden Horn (Halic), the image of a blazing Istanbul formed in the windows of the apartment buildings on the opposite hills, if you can find the right time, still fascinates me.” 

“If you have the chance to look in the opposite direction, you have the opportunity to see the historical peninsula and all its beauties from a very suitable angle. This place is a place I prefer both to refresh my childhood memories and to take photographs while relaxing in this little-known corner of Istanbul from time to time.”

Mehmet says that he would never grow weary of filming Istanbul even if he were to do that daily. 

“This city has a gift for revealing a face you’ve never seen before, each glimpse unlocking the doors to an uncharted journey, a mystery waiting to be discovered,” he adds. 

Descending from the summit, the Aynalikavak Kasri enchants with its ornate mirrors and intricate Ottoman design.

Once a musical hub during Sultan III Selim’s reign, this pavilion whispers of the melodies that once danced through its halls, blending artistry with history. The gifted composer sultan created unforgettable musical modes such as the classics of Suzidilara and Sevkefza within its walls. 

Imagine the melodies reverbating its baroque halls, blending with the breeze from the Halic-facing windows.

Standing here, it's easy to feel the rhythm of the past come alive.

For over 20 years, Hasbi Karakum has sold fruits and vegetables from his street cart in the Kasimpasa and Halic areas, which he fondly calls an "open-air museum." 

He recalls the Ramadan nights when a zeppelin carrying the glowing "Welcome Ramadan" sign glided across the Golden Horn, leaving an unforgettable impression on the neighbourhood's children.

Balat with its colourful houses that easily date back a century, neighbours Fener district. The area intertwines rich heritage with modern vibrancy.

Landmarks like the Fener Greek Orthodox Patriarchate and Church of St. Mary of the Mongols, a Byzantine church preserved in its original form, stand as monuments to Istanbul’s layered past.

Protected by Sultan Mehmed II, these sites reflect the city’s enduring multicultural spirit, while Balat’s lively streets and cafes captivate visitors with their contemporary charm.

Nearby, the cobbled streets of Kurtulus Caddesi invite exploration, where weathered houses and narrow lanes echo with tales of bygone lives that inspire writings and musings.

Author Gokhan Ergur says that exploring the human essence of Kurtulus serves as a source of inspiration for his writing. Many of the stories in his essay collection, Insaniyet Namina (In the Name of Humanity), draw deeply from the spirit of Istanbul.

For those planning to visit the neighbourhood, Ergur recommends embracing its charm with a pause at Damla Dondurma Boza, where a warm cup of cinnamon-dusted salep offers comfort in the crisp air. 

Alternatively, a stop at Nazar Pastanesi for their indulgent profiteroles is sure to add a delightful sweetness to your journey.

Concluding the journey of this hill, Yedikule Hisari, or the 15th-century Yedikule Fortress, tells the tale of Istanbul’s history and resilience through its ancient walls. Now repurposed as an open-air cultural venue, its courtyards host art exhibitions, summer concerts, and cinema nights.

Behind the golden gate, from its towers it presents a panoramic view of Istanbul’s timeless dance between history and progress.

Edirnekapi

On the Sixth Hill, Edirnekapi Hill, one of Istanbul’s storied seven hills, embodies the city’s stratified past. 

Hosting two significant landmarks, the awe-inspiring Mihrimah Sultan Mosque and the historical Kariye (Chora) Mosque, this hill offers visitors a deep dive into architectural splendour and historical significance.

It is the highest hill in Istanbul, where Mihrimah Sultan Mosque is located. It is also home to Tekfur Palace, the only remaining structure from the Byzantine Blachernae Palace, and Kariye Mosque.

The Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent for his beloved daughter Mihrimah Sultan, is one of the legendary Mimar Sinan's masterpieces. Its elegant dome, intricate calligraphy, and luminous interiors reflect Sinan's unparalleled genius and the artistic spirit of the Ottoman Empire.

Nearby, the Kariye Mosque (transformed from Chora church), adorned with 14th-century Byzantine mosaics and frescoes, bridges the city’s Byzantine and Ottoman epochs.

Tekfur Palace or the Palace of the Sovereign, a Byzantine treasure, looms with its ageless high stone walls, offering a glimpse into centuries of transformation.

The hill's ancient city walls, built under Emperor Theodosius II, recount tales of Constantinople's resilience. These stone fortifications, which bore witness to the dramatic events of the Ottoman conquest in 1453, offer visitors sweeping views of Istanbul and a chance to tread paths once vital to defending the city. 

Walking along these historic walls, visitors experience a sense of connection to Istanbul's storied resilience and survival, accompanied by breathtaking vistas of the city.

The iconic silhouette of Istanbul, formed by its seven hills, is a natural heritage reflecting the city's enduring identity. It has played a fundamental role in shaping the concept of the "new Istanbul," Dr Hasan Firat Diker tells TRT World. 

Dr Diker, an architect and a lecturer specialising in restoring historical structures at Fatih Sultan Mehmet Vakif University, says that Istanbul's designation as a settlement dates back to the Thracians' Lygos and later the Megarians' Byzantion. 

Over centuries, the city transformed under the rule of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, with its name evolving from Antonina to Constantinople and finally to Istanbul.

The current name, officially adopted during the early years of the Republic, is believed to have evolved from the Greek phrase "stin poli" (in the city) or from "Constantinople" to Istanbul over time. 

During the Ottoman period, the city was officially referred to as Kostantiniyye in state correspondence while colloquially known by names such as Islambol and Dersaadet.

Prof Diker describes architecture as the art of spatial compromise but notes that Istanbul's silhouette reflects an ongoing urban conflict rather than a long-term consensus. 

Istanbul, the second capital of the Roman Empire, shares a significant common feature with its predecessor: like Rome, Istanbul was geographically established on seven hills. 

These seven hills, located within the current Fatih district and surrounded by sea and land walls, were adorned with monumental structures during the Roman and Ottoman periods. 

This ensured that the visibility of these edifices was further accentuated on the city's elevated terrains, making these architectural ornaments an integral part of the historical peninsula's geographic silhouette.

Nestled within the city's bustling streets is the Buyuk Valide Han, a historic and largest caravanserai built in the 17th century by Kosem Sultan, one of the most powerful women in the Ottoman court.

A relic of the Silk Road era, the Han remains a sanctuary of history. With hidden courtyards and ancient stone arches that appear untouched by time, it offers a tranquil retreat from Istanbul's busy streets.

Kocamustafapasa

Finally, the Seventh Hill, Kocamustafapasa offers a vibrant blend of heritage and history. With its cobblestone streets, architectural wonders, and vibrant food culture, this Seventh Hill offers a poetic dance of tradition and modernity.

The Samatya Surp Kevork Church, granted to the Armenian community by Sultan Mehmed II, is a reminder of Istanbul’s multicultural heritage.

Nearby, the Sunbul Efendi Mosque and Tomb exude tranquillity. Often called the soul of Kocamustafapasa, its peaceful garden and mystical aura offer a haven for reflection and spiritual solace.

"When I first experienced Istanbul's Ramadan traditions, I was just seven years old," recalls Diker, lecturer at Fatih Sultan Mehmet Vakif University.

"On a hot summer day, I visited the Sunbul Efendi, Merkez Efendi, and Hirka-i Serif mosques with my mother and my late grandmother. Touring the spiritual landmarks of the city across its various neighbourhoods in a single day was an unforgettable memory for me."

Years later, Diker reflects on how those early memories shaped his path. "As a university student, I felt immense joy when I created oil paintings of Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace," he says, emphasising the profound connection between his art and his career. 

"The Istanbul I once depicted through paintings of its past was now enabling me to live my future within its history."

Diker speaks passionately about his enduring fascination with Istanbul. 

"I have always been captivated by Istanbul's thousands of years of history—far more than my contemporary period. This fascination stems not only from Istanbul's ever-changing reality but also from the books, films, plays, and songs that have elevated the city's image in my mind," he explains.

 "The unique depth of this city, one that no lifetime could ever fully grasp, continues to deepen my connection with it, and I take great pleasure in this growing bond."

Describing Istanbul, Diker uses a striking metaphor.

"Istanbul is a 'palimpsest,' a parchment overwritten across time and languages, where the erasure of old layers and the addition of new ones have blended to create a timeless mosaic." 

He reflects on the city's shifting relationship with its past. "As Istanbul continues to live, it has developed a habit of estranging itself from its past. Istanbul is a beauty so distant and profound that it cannot be touched."

Diker elaborates on this poetic vision.

"Only when one distances oneself from its space and time can the silhouette of its seven hills truly be loved. Yet, even that silhouette feels incomplete without the parts left outside the walls. Istanbul is like a painting no one will ever see finished or a film whose ending will forever remain unseen."

Another vibrant corner in the neighbourhood is the Samatya’s Historic Fish Market, where gleaming seafood and family-run eateries celebrate Istanbul’s maritime legacy.

The Hekimoglu Ali Pasha Mosque, with its intricate Ottoman stonework and peaceful courtyard, stands as an architectural gem inviting moments of quiet reflection.

Whether sipping tea in a sunlit corner or wandering cobblestone streets, end your journey in Samatya Square, where the hum of daily life mingles with the whispers of the past.