Each day of Ramadan is framed by two meals: Suhoor and Iftar. Suhoor, the pre-dawn meal, is the quieter of the two — a moment of stillness before the day of abstinence begins.

Iftar, by contrast, arrives with the setting sun, signalling the end of the day’s fast. It is the main meal, a communal ritual that brings relief and renewal after long hours of restraint.

In Turkish homes, every Ramadan, one element of iftar remains unwavering: sherbet.

“Ramadan is incomplete without demirhindi (tamarind) sherbet,” tells artisan Ali Guler TRT World. “Beyond its deep-rooted tradition, it boosts immunity, cools the body, increases energy, and aids digestion.”

Between the battle of juices that record steep sales, selling millions of bottles during Ramadan, and WHO issuing health advisory against “the consumption of excessive amounts of sugar” – sherbet is more than just a drink.

A sensory experience, steeped in history and infused with tradition; sherbet is also a reminder of rich culinary heritage. Rose, tamarind, pomegranate, quince, sour cherry were the flavours that once defined festive tables across the Seljuk and Ottoman empires.

Despite fading from everyday life, sherbet continues to hold a cherished place during special occasions, especially in Ramadan. Beyond historical recipes, sherbets offer holistic benefits such as lavender sherbet calms the nerves, while ginger sherbet aids digestion.

Guler is on a mission to remind people that sherbet is not just for the holy month.

“I always say that sherbet is not just for Ramadan. Unfortunately, it is often forgotten outside of the holy month,” he says. “I actively promote it at festivals and fairs, offering free tastings to introduce people to this rich heritage.”

While many associate sherbets with Ottoman history, Guler emphasises that its origins stretch even further back. "Some recipes even predate the empire itself." 

Sherbet alchemist

Ali Guler, the force behind the sherbet brand Serbetci Ali Baba, has dedicated his life to preserving and revitalising the tradition of sherbets.

His journey began in 1977, at just 12 years old, when his father encouraged him to join the family business. Now, decades later, Guler oversees a collection of over 60 sherbet recipes — a variety unmatched by others.

“Sherbet is both a special and a deeply satisfying craft,” Guler says. “It is a part of our disappearing cultural heritage, and I take great pride in keeping it alive. While many people make sherbets today, we remain committed to original Ottoman recipes.”

His devotion to authenticity was cemented by a serendipitous discovery in the 1990s, when a longtime customer gifted him a 19th-century Ottoman palace recipe book.

Intrigued, Guler had the book translated twice to ensure accuracy. One recipe stood out: Demirhindi (tamarind) sherbet, a complex blend of 38 spices requiring a meticulous three-stage cooking process.

For Guler, quality is non-negotiable.

“For more than 20 years, I have made rose sherbet exclusively with roses from Kastamonu,” he says. “Quality is key.”

Though sherbet is most closely associated with Ottoman cuisine, Guler points out that its history stretches even further back.

The culinary traditions derived from the era of Mevlana Rumi also had its impact. Mevlevi food culture, for example, has a 13th-century recipe known as sirkencubin sherbet, which serves both as a refreshment and a medicinal beverage. A glass on an empty stomach cleanses the body with its antioxidant properties.

At his restaurant, Guler offers customers sherbets tailored to their tastes.

“There is a sherbet for everyone,” he says. “Understanding someone’s taste helps me find the right match.”

Committed to accessibility, Guler has even developed diabetic-friendly versions. “Every sherbet we make is natural, handmade, and produced in small batches,” he explains.

Of all the varieties, rose sherbet remains closest to his heart. “It provides a sense of refreshment, strengthens the heart, soothes the stomach and liver, and even helps with oral infections,” he says. “We even send it to the President himself.”

He traces the sherbet’s historic prestige back centuries. “In 1573 alone, the Ottoman palace used nearly a ton of red and white roses to make sherbet. It was a favourite in the 16th-century court.”

Guardians of tradition

In an age where modern beverages dominate, Gulumser Karadayi, an Istanbul-based food enthusiast, stands as a bridge between past and present, ensuring that the rich, centuries-old tradition of sherbets continues to flourish for generations to come.

Growing up in Gaziantep, in a home where customs were meticulously observed, Karadayi saw how sherbets shaped family life.

Ramadan, in particular, was a time of great culinary care in her family.

“As children, we looked forward to the lavish iftar feasts prepared with great attention to detail,” Karadayi tells TRT World. “Hosting guests was a cherished practice, and no table was complete without a cooling sherbet. Honey sherbet, ravanda (rhubarb sherbet), and liquorice sherbet were common, with liquorice being a favourite. Some loved it so much that they looked forward to it every iftar.”

During Eid, rose and mint sherbets took centre stage, while sour cherry sherbet remained a household favourite. The preparation of these drinks was a collective ritual.

“My father taught us so much. My mother, father, and siblings all took part in cooking and making sherbets together. Our home was a joyful place,” she says.

Now, Karadayi’s daughter carries the tradition forward, adding her own modern touches.

“She’s given my recipes a modern twist, to make sure they are still relevant today,” she says.

Ginger sherbet, Karadayi notes, is not only refreshing but medicinal. “It soothes sore throats, aids digestion, and eases stomach discomfort.”

Inspired by her family’s legacy, Karadayi has taken her knowledge beyond the home, sharing recipes online and teaching workshops.

“People are very keen to keep these traditions alive. There is so much interest that I can barely keep up with the demand,” she says, smiling.

“My father was both modern and deeply attached to traditions,” she says. “He had a keen understanding of food culture and always decided on the menu with my mother. I grew up in a home where exquisite meals and drinks were constantly being prepared.”

Looking to the future, Guler is hopeful. “My daughter is passionate about carrying on this heritage,” he says. “My greatest wish is for sherbet culture to not only survive but flourish.”