They say every Istanbulite has their Uskudar moment — and during Ramadan, the allure of that vibrant part of the city is stronger than ever. Located on the Asian side of Istanbul, Uskudar was once known as Scutari during the Ottoman and Byzantine periods.

Even earlier, it was referred to as Burhan-Kati in Persian, meaning "a place often visited." No matter the era or the name, Uskudar has always drawn people in.

During Ramadan, that pull becomes almost magnetic. As the sun dips low, ferry horns give way to azan calls, and the scent of fresh pide wraps the coast like a gentle cloak. Locals drift in — not with urgency, but with purpose.

Some come for the mosques, some for tea by the shore, and others to feel time slow down — beating gently in its unique rhythm. Because in Istanbul, Uskudar isn't just a stop, it's a pause. A breath. A place to return to — again and again — especially under the golden hush of a Ramadan twilight.

"Have you been to Valide-i Cedid yet?"

As you cross the Bosphorus and step out of the Uskudar Marmaray metro station — which opens almost directly onto a mosque — you find yourself in the courtyard of one of Uskudar's hidden gems: Valide-i Cedid Mosque. This unexpected encounter, especially during Ramadan, feels like stepping into a fairytale, with the mosque's mesmerising lights casting a magical glow.

Valide-i Cedid made waves on social media this year with its dazzling Ramadan illuminations.

It lit up countless Instagram stories, and as the final days of the holy month approached, visiting the mosque became a citywide ritual.

Istanbulites began asking each other, "Have you been to Valide-i Cedid yet?"

What starts as a single visit often becomes a habit.

Once you start frequenting Uskudar, you notice familiar faces at the tea houses — not just locals, but regulars who return as if answering a call only they can hear. And just as it keeps calling you back with its familiar sights and sounds, Uskudar also knows how to surprise you.

With the opening of its new gastronomy street, the neighbourhood has embraced a wave of culinary delights — from Mexican tacos to Middle Eastern falafel — bringing global flavours into its historic heart. Those who grab a bite from this vibrant culinary scene often find a quiet corner — maybe in one of Uskudar's lively squares, maybe along the seaside — where the golden hour melts over the silhouette of Istanbul and the gentle glow of the Maiden's Tower.

And if you're here during Ramadan, your iftar doesn't have to be rushed or complicated. Many choose to break their fast in the tranquil courtyards of mosques like Valide-i Cedid, Mihrimah Sultan, or Semsi Pasa — each offering a spiritual setting and a front-row seat to the city's most graceful twilight.

Whether it's the call to prayer echoing off the Bosphorus or the clinking of tea glasses as the city exhales after sunset, Uskudar invites you to slow down, savour the moment, and maybe stay a little longer.

Fairy Tales for little hearts

"Valide-i Cedid turns into a playground during Ramadan!" says Mehmet Gokturk, eight years old, eyes wide.

"There are cotton candy stands, puppet shows, and races where I win prizes!" His excitement reflects the joyful atmosphere at the ‘Medina-style Children's Iftar,’ where children aged 4 to 6 break their ‘boat fasts’ (miniature dawn-to-dusk fasts) on floor spreads — just like in the Prophet's era.

Bekir Aydin, the event organiser, explains: "We gift toys as 'tooth rent' — a tradition where parents' buy' their child's fast — to show that Ramadan is sweet, not stern." Behind him, Karagoz's shadows dance under a canopy of lanterns.

"Ramadan and Karagoz are twins," says Cemal Fatih Polat, a shadow puppeteer and recognised bearer of intangible cultural heritage. 

"In Ottoman times, 29 nights of Karagoz plays filled the hours between iftar and suhoor — except on Laylat al-Qadr. Today, I craft my own puppets and perform during Ramadan and in international festivals year-round. Still, there's a special magic in Ramadan."

The themes of his plays — honesty, love of nature, social ethics — aren't limited to the holy month, yet they resonate deeply with its spirit. In one story, Karagoz sells spoiled goods; children in the audience correct him, learning moral lessons through humour.

"After a show in Germany," his wife and stage partner, Melike Donmez Polat, recalls, "an elderly couple wept. They said, 'We watched Karagoz as children. You brought it all back.'"

The couple regularly performs in Istanbul's historic neighbourhoods, like Kuzguncuk. "After the open-air iftar, we raise our curtain," he says. "The breeze, the lanterns, the crowd — it feels like stepping into an old Istanbul evening."

While Karagoz may seem like mere Ramadan entertainment today, Polat believes it's more than nostalgia. "It's cultural memory," he says, "and a living one."

Uskudar’s Ramadan table

As night falls, the mosque's courtyard empties, but Uskudar's pulse continues along its gastronomy street, where the scent of Albanian spiced meatballs (Arnavut kofte) mingles with the tang of Mexican tacos.

Yasin Cansever, 54, flips kofte on his grill, his voice a gravelly melody. "My grandfather's recipe – one kilogram of meat, ten grams of salt, no cheating with soy!"

"My grandfather taught me that good kofte is a form of worship," he says, flipping the patties with a practiced wrist. "During Ramadan, I ensure students get extra portions. If they're fasting through exams, they need proper nourishment."

"Meatballs shouldn't hide behind sauces," Cansever adds. "The flavour should speak for itself — just meat, sumac, thyme, and memory."

Meanwhile, in Kuzguncuk, a picturesque neighbourhood tucked between hills and the Bosphorus, expat families gather at Michelin-starred DasHan The Uygur, drawn by the district's rich cultural milieu.

"Uskudar is an incredible place, steeped in history and culture," says Sugandha Joshi, an Indian expat who recently moved to Türkiye.

"This Ramadan, we had iftar at an Asian restaurant with a view of the Bosphorus. Families were sharing food under the sunset — it felt deeply spiritual."

The sense of belonging struck her. "The tea houses, the antique shops — all come alive during Ramadan. There's a beautiful energy. People stay out late, not just to eat, but to be together."

Her 10-year-old daughter, Ayantika, chimes in, "I got to eat Chinese food — it reminded me of where we used to live! And everyone was sharing the warm iftar bread. Ramadan here feels so happy."

Warm evenings at 7K Coffee

After iftar, many head towards 7K Coffee & Workshop, a cosy cafe that has quietly become one of Uskudar's gathering points, especially during Ramadan nights.

"We welcomed Ramadan with our regulars and many new faces," says Burcu, 41, the cafe's pastry chef and manager. "Serving coffee in Uskudar during Ramadan isn't just about flavour, it's about sharing warmth, stories, and a sense of belonging."

She explains the vision behind the name 7K, which stands for coffee, book, cat, pen, brotherhood, community, and continent — a blend of ideals inspired by Istanbul's seven hills and the dream of connecting people from seven continents.

"Even if it's not as busy as other months," she adds, "we hosted art workshops, panel talks, Sufi music performances, and one of our favourite evenings was our storytelling night."

Durdane Isra Cinar, 33, a writer and resident of Uskudar, was among the voices that evening. "Living and writing here is a quiet blessing," she shared.

"Ramadan in Uskudar weaves something deeply spiritual — from visits between Buyuk Camlica Mosque and Valide-i Cedid to walks through the groves, night prayers, and shared suhoor conversations."

That night, she read from Kalbe Donus Azigi (Provisions for the Heart's Return), a heartfelt collection of letters co-authored with writer Tuba Kaplan, born out of a shared love for old Ramadan traditions and quiet reflections.

"Uskudar invites you into its warm woven carpet of stories," Durdane Isra Cinar says. "And then, just when you're least expecting it, helps you find what you've been quietly searching for."

Spirit of Uskudar lives on

For many, Uskudar is not just a place but a feeling that returns every Ramadan — gentle, grounding, and quietly powerful.

Sociologist Beyza Turcihan, 30, also finds solace in Uskudar's calm spaces. "Even as cafes fill every corner and social life becomes increasingly consumerist, Uskudar's quiet mosques — like Ayazma and Valide-i Atik — still breathe an untouched spirituality," she says.

"Despite all the changes, there's something in Uskudar's air that time can't touch."

Ihsane Idrissi, 30, originally from Morocco, feels the same. "I've lived in Uskudar for six years now, and I can honestly say I feel like a local," she says with a smile.

"Ramadan in Morocco is beautiful and soulful, but Uskudar offers an entirely different atmosphere. In Morocco, Ramadan is more family-centred — iftars are usually at home, with big tables and strong neighbourhood ties. People know each other, and sharing is central."

"But in Uskudar," she continues, "Ramadan feels more like a collective experience. The iftar tents by the seaside, the echo of azan from the mosques, the spiritual gatherings, and the festive Ramadan evenings create a unique rhythm."

She fondly recalls moments of prayer and reflection. “Tarawih prayers at Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, the dhikr circles at Aziz Mahmud Hudayi, tahajjud at Rumi Mehmet Pasha Mosque, and the evening crowds near Kurbagalidere after iftar — they’re all filled with a warmth and spirituality that touches the heart.”

"As a Moroccan, I feel fortunate to have spent Ramadans in Uskudar. I got to live the beauty of two cultures, and in the process, Uskudar became a second home."

Today is the last day of Ramadan. If you haven't made it to Uskudar yet, don't miss your chance to catch the vibe.

After iftar, take a walk, sip some tea, and let the spirit of Valide-i Cedid Mosque wrap you in its timeless glow.