Enslaved Africans in the late 16th century are believed to have used cornrows on their heads as maps to potential freedom.
What their oppressive white plantation owners regarded as a primitive hairstyle became, over time, a method of covert resistance. Many historical accounts suggest cornrows were used to convey coded escape routes discreetly, information about meeting points, and messages about resistance.
Centuries later, Khadija Musa Sele continues the tonsorial tradition in Kenya, albeit for an entirely different reason.
Every Sunday, she takes her three daughters to a hairdresser's salon on their street in Nairobi to give them what she calls "a neat look".
"The two younger ones braid the Milazo (straight lines or cornrows). The style is easy to maintain and takes less time to braid and untangle. My eldest prefers the Kilimanjaro style, which is decorated with a hanging tail," Khadija tells TRT Africa.
"I personally prefer just two Milazos or one knot."
Braided stories
In Africa, interwoven tonsorial patterns had been distinguishing social rank for centuries before colonialists sought to dehumanise Africans by stripping them of their cultural identity
The braiding technique, distinct from traditional plaits, was intended to convey age, kinship, and marital status. The style spread across the continent between the 16th and 19th centuries, with each region modifying it to reflect its cultural language.
Cornrows remain a symbol of identity for people of African descent worldwide. From American diva Beyoncé to Nigerian singer-songwriter Burna Boy, numerous celebrities have elevated the style into mainstream fashion, showcasing its versatility while preserving its African roots.
Msusi Safi salon in Nairobi's Eastleigh catalogues an array of intricate cornrows to suit every face.
Kilimanjaro runs along the sides of the head and rests at the nape of the neck. Milazo extends down to the end of the nape, with the braids sometimes bunched like a tail. Da Brat twists the hair into rope-like strands.
West Africa offers its own hair lexicon. Zane mirrors the Swahili Milazo, while Shuku creates different patterns. Each region preserves its unique braiding vocabulary.
Chemical threat
Amid the influx of modern hot combs and chemical straighteners, centuries of tradition now face competition.
Straightened hair is a fad worldwide, and Africa is no exception. Some hide their natural textures under weaves and wigs, believing nappy hair appears unfashionable.
Khadija begs to differ. "I won't use chemicals on my children's hair for anything. They pose a danger to health and can even cause hair to fall," she tells TRT Afrika.
Like the cornrows that survived slavery, colonialism and cultural appropriation, traditionalists like Khadija are convinced that braiding traditions will outlast hot combs and chemical treatments.
The styles that once bore hidden messages against colonial oppression now carry the legacy of African identity.
